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The Art of Fly Fishing
By
A. Sayward Lamb
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The contents of this story are copyright protected by law 2004, 2005
by A. Sayward Lamb and Maine Fishing Today. Any use, reprinting, copying
or publishing to another website without the consent of the owner, is
prohibited.
Fly-fishing is an art that can only be learned by seeking the knowledge
and information needed to become an accomplished fisherman. There are
many resources available, such as books; fly fishing courses; sporting
magazines; videotapes; etc. Often, you can arrange to learn some of the
basic techniques from a friend who is already “hooked” on fly-fishing.
Once the basics are learned, all it takes is
practice--practice--practice. Your efforts will be rewarded by the many
hours of pleasure you will experience when you hook onto a trout,
salmon, or any other kind of fish. The action of a fly rod is so
sensitive that you become an intricate part of the battle with the fish.
The winner is always the person holding the fly rod, whether you catch
the fish, or not. You may think this is a strange statement to make, but
wait until you get the fly rod in your hands while battling a nice fish
and you will understand what I mean. You will find the experience well
worth the effort that you put into learning how to fly fish. |
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I was introduced to fly-fishing by a next door neighbor, H. Stanley
Andrews, who first got me interested in fly tying. One winter evening I
happened to drop by his house for a visit, and Stan was tying double
tandem flies, to use trolling for landlocked salmon. I was intrigued by
the skill with which he made them. It looked easy, and as we talked, he
insisted I should try fly tying. He told me to come over sometime and he
would show me how it was done. I kept his offer in mind, and a few days
later I made arrangements to get my first lesson from Stan. I was “all
thumbs” with my first crude attempts, and couldn’t seem to master the
art of keeping the hair and feathers in the correct positions on the
hook. All it took was plenty of practice, before I eventually could tie
a reasonable resemblance to a fly pattern. Naturally, once I had some
flies tied up, over the winter months, I had to get the necessary gear
that I would need to go fly-fishing.
That was over forty-five years ago, and since that time I like to think
I have become somewhat knowledgeable on the subject of fly-fishing. We
are never too old to learn, and I find modern technology has contributed
greatly to the sport. New ideas, and methods, are constantly coming onto
the market. My first fly rod was made of bamboo, and I used a level,
floating fly line, with a nylon leader. Nothing fancy, but I sure
enjoyed many hours of pleasure with that setup. Improvements in fly
rods, lines, and leaders, have helped make fly fishing easier, although
it can seem complicated, especially for the beginner. I have had many
fishermen tell me they have never tried fly fishing because they felt it
was too difficult to learn to cast a fly; to say nothing about having to
learn how to select the right type of fly rod, and line needed to match
the rod. I believe once you have acquired the fundamental knowledge, you
can begin to learn more details by simply taking one step at a time.
Trying to remember everything all at once would be nearly impossible,
and furthermore, I see no need for it.
First of all, you will need to know what kind of fly rod to purchase.
Fly rods come in many lengths and weights, and of course, in many
different materials. As far as I know, there is no single fly rod that
will do all the types of fly-fishing a person will want to do. The type
of rod depends on what you are planning to use it for. If you are going
to fish inland streams, or rivers, as well as inland ponds and lakes,
then a single fly rod might handle your requirements. If you plan on
catching larger fish, naturally it would require a heavier weight, and
probably a longer fly rod, to accommodate a larger reel and heavier
weight of fly line. My advice for a beginner, is to get a medium action
fly rod, 7 1/2 to 8 feet in length, weighing between 3 1/4 to 4 ounces,
which is made to accommodate a #6 fly line. (Most good fly rods will be
marked just above the handle, showing the weight of the rod as well as
the recommended weight of the fly line it is designed for.
Early fly rods were made of bamboo, then came fiberglass, and now most
of them are made of graphite or other composite materials that are
light, but very strong and flexible. Because of this, modern fly rods
will literally “drive” the fly line forward in a whipping motion that
carries the fly further, and with less effort, than older type rods.
Eventually most fly fishermen end up owning several fly rods, and most
fly rods have a special purpose. For instance: I have a L.L. Bean, 9 1/2
foot graphite fly rod, which I use with a #10 weight forward, sinking
tip, fly line. I bought a special “mooching” reel, with a star drag, to
use specifically with this rod. It is a large reel, and I need it to
accommodate the 250 yards of Dacron backing for the fly line. Why do I
have such a fly rod? To use while fishing for large salmon in Alaska.
The last time I was there, in 1997, this was the only rod I used to
catch salmon. It is made to hold up to a seventy-five pound fish, but
the largest I have ever landed with it weighed forty pounds. Still I
think catching a salmon that size, in fast water, provided all the
action I needed, and I was thrilled to have been able to do it. I also
have smaller reels, as well as other fly lines, to use with this fly rod
when I want to fish for Atlantic salmon, or for saltwater fishing.
How do you know what kind of fly rod to purchase, and in what price
range, in order to get a decent one? If possible, talk with friends or
acquaintances that go fly-fishing. Ask them plenty of questions, and if
possible, ask them to go with you when you look for a fly rod. Better
still, if you can get someone to let you try casting a fly with a fly
rod, you might get a better understanding of what fly fishing is all
about. Most clerks in sporting goods stores can be very helpful, and
many have the expertise to answer your questions. If you don’t feel a
clerk is qualified to do this, go to other stores and seek other
opinions. This information should help provide the answers to your
questions, so you can make the right selections for your personal needs,
enabling you to find the fly rod that is right for you.
I do not recommend that you spend a lot of money on any of your
beginning equipment. I say this for several reasons. It is better for
you to make sure you like fly fishing before making too much of a
monetary investment. After you have gained some insight on the art of
fly fishing you will learn just what your requirements are, and you can
make your purchases accordingly. I believe a fly rod is the most
important piece of equipment, when it comes to fly-fishing. Buy one that
will fit your budget, and still have the quality needed to last for
several years. As time goes on, you will probably acquire several fly
rods for your own convenience. For instance, there are times when you
will find you may want to have one fly rod hung up with a dry line, and
at the same time have a second fly rod hung up with a wet line. This is
especially true when you are fishing out of a boat, or canoe. Fly rods
are priced from under one hundred dollars, to several hundreds of
dollars, but regardless of price, they are all made for only two
purposes. One is to cast and retrieve the fly line and fly, while the
second is to hook and play the fish. All fly rods will do this, only
some of them do it much better than others.
Some persons may recommend a particular brand of fly rod, which often
turns out to be the same brand they use. No doubt, experience is the
best teacher, but each of us have our own individual differences; so
what may feel good in my hands might not feel the same to you. I know it
is hard to tell how good a rod is going to be unless it is hung up with
a reel and fly line, so you can actually try to get the “feel” of it.
Just the same, you can often tell how much “spine” a fly rod has just by
taking it in your hand and “whipping” it back and forth. Try to notice
whether it is limber or stiff. Certainly you don’t want a fly rod to
feel like you have a cant dog in your hands. The fly rod must have
“backbone” enough to carry the fly line forward as you make the forward
cast, as well as to pick the fly line out of the water, when it is
retrieved. A fly rod that is too light for your fly line will make your
arm and shoulders do the work the fly rod should be doing. To make it
less tiring, be sure the fly line is compatible with your fly rod. When
this is the case, your casts will become more accurate; you will present
your fly easier, and with less effort. In other words, all of these
things should be taken into consideration in order to make fly fishing
enjoyable.
Selection of fly lines can be confusing for the novice fly fisherman.
There are so many different kinds, all having a special purpose, that
most beginners stand back and shake their heads in wonderment. Again, my
suggestion is to keep it simple. You should be able to do just fine with
two types of fly lines. The first one should be a double taper, floating
(dry) fly line. The second should be a fast sinking (wet) fly line. Both
of these should be in the correct weight to match the fly rod (s) you
are going to use the respective lines on.
Floating (dry) fly lines, are for surface fishing with dry flies, or
just under the surface, with wet flies. Sinking (wet) lines are designed
to fish under water, with wet flies, and nymphs. Sinking lines are also
designed to sink at different degrees of rapidity. For instance: A fast
sinking line will sink slower than a super fast sinking line. The depth
of water I am fishing in determines my own personal choice. If the water
is shallow, (no more than six to eight feet), I will use the regular
sinking line. In deeper water I often use a super fast sinking line, so
I won’t have to spend as much time waiting for the fly line to sink to
bottom, or whatever depth I am planning to fish. Doing this means I
spend less time waiting, and more time fishing.
The easiest way to determine the type of fly line you want, is to look
on the box, or container, it comes in. It will be marked with letters
such as this: No. 6 LF, which means: Number 6 level floating. There are
several other abbreviations, such as: DT (double taper); WF (weight
forward); FS (fast sinking). These are some of the more common types. If
you have any doubts about what you are purchasing, ask a clerk. If you
order from a catalogue, or on the internet, explain what you want the
fly line for, or better yet, have an experienced fly fisherman help with
your selections. Usually, wet lines are neutral in color, such as dark
gray, or dark brown, etc. Dry fly lines are often brighter, such as:
bright green; orange; yellow, etc.. Most every fly line has a small
identification sticker for your fishing reel, to show what type of fly
line is on a particular reel.
Of all the equipment used in fly-fishing, I believe the least important
is the fly reel. Why? Basically the reel is only needed as a convenient
storage place for the fly line. About the only time line is stripped
from the reel is when the fisherman initially begins fishing. While fly
casting, most of us simply coil the fly line in our hand, or let the
line fall to our feet, (or bottom of the boat, if we are in one), while
we strip in the line. We hold the fly line in one hand, as we cast with
the other, while we are casting line out. As a result, the fly reel
doesn’t get used that often. After a strike, tension on the fly line is
controlled by squeezing the fly line under the first two fingers, and
pressing it against the rod handle, and doing so regulates the drag on
the fly line. Some people will dispute my statement, and point out that
a spring loaded fly reel will retrieve the fly line by pressing a lever.
I cannot advise you on this type of reel because I only owned one, and
found it did not suit my purposes. I prefer the single action type of
fly reel, and like the type designed so only one side of the spool will
come off the spindle. The fly line can sometimes become caught between
the outer circumference of the spool, and the main part of the reel.
Having a reel that is solid on one side eliminates half the problem. I
also think this type of reel is easier to remove and replace on the
spindle. You may want to try different types of reels, and in time, you
will decide the types you prefer. When you do select a fly reel be sure
it is large enough to not only hold the 35 yards of fly line, but will
have enough room to use a reasonable amount of backing line. I use a
backing of braided nylon, or Dacron, and fill the spool only to the
point so it will hold both the backing and the fly line. I have tried to
guess how much backing is the correct amount, but this generally does
not work. Even though it is more work, I now wind the fly line onto the
spool first, then tie on the backing onto the fly line, and wind up the
reel until it is filled to the point I desire. The extra work comes into
play, because the backing and fly line have to be unwound from the fly
reel and rewound so it is on the spool correctly. Use of the backing
assures the fly line is not coiled too tightly on the spool, resulting
in a line that will cast easier. (Here is a tip.) If your fly line is
coiled too tightly as it is taken from the reel, simply take a short
section between your hands, and stretch it. Do this all along the coiled
portion and it will help straighten the line.
Earlier, I gave a brief description of some of the types of fly lines,
but I did not go into detail about their respective uses. Level line is
pretty much self-explanatory. It is the same diameter the full length of
the line. This is the least expensive type of fly line. the ends of the
line can be reversed if the end being used becomes worn. Double taper
line has a larger diameter in the center portion of the fly line, and
tapers down to a smaller diameter at each end. This gives the line more
flexibility, and helps to make presentation of the fly easier than level
line. It also can be reversed, to get longer use of the line. Weight
forward line has a greater diameter for a few feet along the casting
(tip) end. It is generally used to achieve a greater distance, when
casting into the wind. Sinking tip lines are floating lines, and usually
have ten feet of sinking line built into the casting end. This line is
often used in fast water, when a fisherman wants to get the fly nearer
to bottom without having the whole length of the line sink. Torpedo
lines have a few feet of larger diameter line extending several feet
from the tip end of the line. It is used to gain greater distance in
casting the line, as well as casting into the wind. There are other
specialized fly lines, but I am not familiar with all of them. I don’t
believe the average fly fisherman will have any need for types other
than what I have just described.
Of course, every fly line has to have some sort of leader, in order for
the fly to be attached to it. The lengths and diameter of these leaders
vary greatly. The types you use will depend on the type of fishing you
plan to do. I like to have a leader that is nearly as long as my fly
rod. If I were using an eight-foot rod, I would use a 7 1/2-foot leader.
Generally, when I fish for Eastern Brook Trout, I use a six-pound
leader. For dry fly fishing I prefer a lighter leader, so I use a
four-pound test. With lighter leader I find I am apt to give them too
much “snap” when I set the hook, and this causes me to lose fish due to
a broken leader. Some fishermen, whom I call real fly-fishing “Purists”,
will use a light fly rod, with an ultra light leader, of one to two
pounds. These are called “Noodle” rods, and are very long and extremely
limber, so they can take up the shock on the leader. I suppose it is a
challenge to use this sort of light tackle, especially on wily fish. My
preference still remains, for all around fishing, six pound test leader.
For the past several years I have been economizing by purchasing limp
monofilament to use for leaders. True, they may not cast as accurately
as a tapered leader, but they get the job done for a lot less money. I
have never found any sinking leader material in these small spools, so I
still have to buy my sinking leaders.
For delicate presentation of a fly, I prefer a tapered leader, but it
isn’t often I find myself in such a situation. Most of my fishing is
done from a boat or canoe, on small lakes or ponds. I find the limp
monofilament works just fine for me. There are several ways to attach
the leader to the fly line. Many fishermen prefer using small metal
inserts, which have a small eyelet on one end, and a small barbed point
on the other. This is inserted into the center end of the fly line, and
avoids tying a complicated knot, when attaching the leader. My own
preference is still the “old fashioned” needle knot. The needle knot
requires a large darning needle, which I carry in my fly boxes, just in
case I want to replace my leader when I am out fishing. The needle knot
will seldom bother about running through the guides of the fly rod. The
small metal inserts work fine, but I have a terrible time trying to get
the barbs inserted into the end of the fly line. I had much rather use
the needle knot, which I learned to use many years ago. I have also seen
another method, which I have not tried yet. This involves tying a loop
in a piece of leader material, which is tied to the end of the fly line.
The actual leader often has a loop already made into it, and this is
looped through the first loop. The only problem I see with this hitch,
is the fact that it makes a big “blob” where the leader and fly line
join together. I have never tried it, but I would be surprised if the
knot would slide through the guides of a fly rod. I can see where this
type of loop connection might be quicker to tie, but quicker isn’t
always better. As a beginner, you may want to try all these methods, and
in that way you will find the one that suits you. Tying the fly to the
leader is fairly simple. I push the tip end of the leader through the
eye of the hook, (fly), then twist it around the leader at least seven
turns. Holding the fly with one hand, take the tip of the leader and
insert it through the loop in the leader, down next to the hook. Now
bring the tip back up through the second loop that is made when the line
was placed through the first loop. When this is done correctly, the tip
of the leader will be parallel to the leader, headed in the opposite
direction from the fly. Now hold the tip of the leader between your
fingertips, as you tighten the knot. Cut off any excess leader that
remains protruding from the top end of the finished knot. Now you have a
knot that will hold the fly securely as it is cast on the end of the
leader. One disadvantage of this knot is the fact that every time you
change the fly, the leader is shortened. Eventually you will either have
to change the leader, or tie on a short piece of limp monofilament that
is long enough to bring the leader back to the desired length. Use the
same knot I described above, only this time you have to make loops on
both the old and new pieces of filament. To eliminate shortening the
leader, you may purchase a small type of clip that ties onto the leader.
When you need to change flies, all that is done is to unclip the fly and
replace it with another fly. The disadvantage to this arrangement is
that it makes the fly a bit heavier, especially when using dry flies.
The choice is yours.
Perhaps I will be opening a “whole can of angleworms,” because I want to
give you some insight on the different types of flies, and the methods
of using them. If you have been in sporting goods stores where they sell
flies, I am sure you have wondered: Why are there so many types, colors,
and sizes? How are they used? What do I need to get started? How much do
they cost? These are all legitimate questions, and I hope to help answer
some of your concerns.
Basically, there are two types of flies; dry and wet. Dry flies are tied
in a manner that makes them light enough to float on the water by
surface tension. They are tied by using feathers, which are wound on the
hook so the barbules come in contact with the water. Hollow hair, such
as that which comes from deer, moose, caribou, and elk, are used because
of the excellent floating qualities of this type of fur. Hooks used for
dry flies are generally made from smaller diameter wire, to make them
lighter. There are also different kinds of silicone floatants that can
be applied to the flies and fly lines, to repel the absorption of water,
thus enhancing the floating capabilities. Dry flies are used when fish
are feeding on, or just below the surface of the water.
Wet flies are designed to be fished under the surface, with materials
that absorb water, thus helping them sink. Sometimes these flies are
weighted with lead wire wound around the shank of the hook, in order to
make the fly sink faster. The fly tying materials are added to make the
design of the fly more streamlined so it will move through the water
with less resistance, creating less wake. Most of the hair and feathers
that are tied on wet flies are designed to pulsate as they are
retrieved, with twitching motions, through the water. This helps to make
the fly look alive, to better imitate a minnow, hellgrammite, or some
other insect. The trick is to find the right fly to match the food a
fish is feeding on. Then again, some flies do not, and never will, match
anything that swims in the water. Why does such a fly work? I wish I
knew the answer! Nymphs are also imitated, trying to match the emerging
hatches of insects. They are fished very slowly on, or near the bottom
of a stream, pond, or lake.
Some of the materials used to tie flies are: many kinds of fur,
including deer, moose, bear, fox, rabbit, muskrat, mink, weasel, elk,
polar bear, badger, and on- and on- and on. I even tied flies from hair
I cut off from one of my Brittany bird dogs, and caught trout with them.
Feathers include: Neck and saddle hackles, along with marabou, breast,
and wings from several types of domestic fowl; along with ducks, geese,
turkeys, partridge, peacocks, ostrich, etc.. There are also many
man-made materials, such as: threads of many colors, gold, copper, and
silver tinsel, in several widths and designs. The list is never ending.
Of course many of the feathers and hair not only are used in their
natural colors, but also are dyed in a rainbow of colors. Other very
popular materials are chenille and floss, in many colors.
The price of individual flies can vary from a dollar to two dollars or
more. If you attempted to purchase all your flies, when you start
fly-fishing, the costs could be substantial. This is why so many fly
fishermen tie their own flies. In my own case, I tie all my own, and
this means a substantial savings when you consider the fact that I have
well over a thousand flies in my fly boxes, when I go on fishing trips.
I won’t go into the details of fly tying, because there are many good
books available, with excellent pictures and descriptions of flies. For
those persons who want to learn to tie flies, I would suggest you attend
fly tying courses in adult education classes at local schools. I have
attended many of these classes over the years. I even took classes from
an instructor whom I first taught to tie flies. At the time, he told me
his hands were too big and clumsy. I told him: “Nonsense!” He has been
an instructor for several years. I have been tying my own flies for over
forty-five years, but I still learn new “tricks” in these adult
education courses. Not only that, but by attending the weekly classes
during the winter months, I managed to tie a lot of flies needed for
summer fishing. I also get a lot of new ideas, as well as learning about
different places to try fly-fishing. The courses are fun, and you will
learn the basics of the art of fly tying. You will also become more
aware of what you need for materials, in order to tie your own flies.
The initial investment for the equipment and materials to tie flies is
not prohibitive. Once you get into it, you will learn to save anything,
and everything, you can get your hands on, for fly tying materials. By
being a “scrounger”, you will be amazed at what you will find at very
little, or no actual out of pocket costs. Look for items at flea markets
and yard sales. You might be surprised if I told you how many squirrel
tails I have salvaged from road killed animals. You can get deer, elk,
moose and other types of fur from your “hunting buddies”. I have dyed
many buck tails from deer I have shot, and others, who know I tie flies,
give them to me. In return I usually favor them with a few flies tied
from them; so it works out nicely both ways. In the long run, it is much
cheaper to tie your own flies, and the reward comes when you catch fish
with the flies you have tied. Some may be standard patterns, but once in
a while, if you are like me, you will have what I call a “bad dream”,
and think up some new creation that hopefully, will catch fish. If that
creation works, fine! If it doesn’t, then all you are out is basically a
few cents and the effort involved in tying the fly.
Fly tying has other advantages besides the fact it saves money. Here is
an example: Like I just said, I often take a thousand flies with me when
I go on extended fishing trips. I learned many years ago to also bring
along my fly tying kits. Sometimes I have found, in spite of all the
different flies I have with me, that I still do not have a fly of the
exact size, or color, to suit the fish. I remember when I was fishing a
lake in northern Maine, the trout wanted only a fly that had just the
right shade of orange. I had the same basic fly in four other shades of
orange, but none of them worked. I tried to find someone who had the
right shade of orange floss and orange buck tail, but to no avail. I did
find other flies that caught trout---once in awhile---but the good
fishing surely slowed down without that particular colored orange fly.
If I had taken my fly tying kits on that trip, who knows how many trout
I might have caught? It was a lesson learned the hard way, and now I
plan to have the kits along with me. As I have learned: “Don’t leave
home without them!”
Another thing I enjoy about fly fishing, is that it is very relaxing,
especially when out on a remote lake or pond, early in the morning, and
watch a beautiful sunrise; or late evening, as the sun sets. Often times
I have seen a variety of wildlife; such as loons, otters, beavers, mink,
ducks, etc. who live in, or near, these waters. I have also seen deer,
moose, and bears, come out of the woods and walk along the shoreline,
and sometimes even feed, or swim, in the water. Paddling a canoe quietly
along the water doesn’t seem to worry wildlife very much. For me, the
major part of every fishing trip is the enjoyment of being with friends,
as well as enjoying watching the wildlife in its natural environment.
The sunrises and sunsets are often spectacular, and many of these remain
vividly in my mind. It is no wonder I often refer to these places as
“God’s Country.”
You can take all the lessons that you need, to learn how to fly fish,
and there are still occasions when the unexplainable happens. Here are a
few personal examples of these experiences that have unexplainable
answers. One of my longtime friends and fishing partner is Milton Inman.
We have been on many fishing trips together, and we often take our wives
along. A definite pattern has been proven over a period of many years.
If the weather is calm, with the surface of the water relatively smooth,
I will catch more fish than Milt. When the weather is rough, with waves
or whitecaps on the surface, Milt will catch more fish than I do. This
has happened repeatedly, even when fishing together in the same boat, or
canoe. Trying to find the answer, we have even exchanged flies we were
using. That still didn’t make any difference. I thought it might be
because I tie a heavier fly than Milt does. By that I mean my flies have
more materials tied into them, while Milt’s are tied sparse, with less
materials in them. Our tests convinced us this was not the answer.
Perhaps it is the fact I fish left-handed, while Milt fishes
right-handed. We haven’t figured out how to switch hands, so this may be
the answer. Perhaps it is the way we retrieve our lines, although
sometimes, when we have been sitting in the same boat, we have
synchronized our retrieves, and that didn’t make any difference. Milt
says maybe we don’t hold our mouths right! So the mystery remains,
and these are some of the idiosyncrasies that make fly fishing so
interesting.
Milt and I were trout fishing on a very windy day, and the lake was very
rough. We tried fishing with wet flies, but to no avail. Milt noticed
that once in awhile he saw a trout break the surface, and jump above the
waves. He looked in his fly-box and put on a bright orange dry fly that
was made in Japan. He tied it to his leader, the cast it downwind,
letting the fly float on top of the waves. In only a very short time he
got a strike and caught a respectable trout. I was surprised as Milt, to
see this method of fly fishing work. After catching that first trout, he
tried stripping the dry fly in quite rapidly, almost on the very crown
of the waves. The trout loved it! I don’t know how many fish he caught
with that fly, but by the time he was done fishing, the fly was almost
completely unraveled. I tried some of my orange colored dry flies, but
they did not work nearly as well as Milt’s fly. I did manage to catch a
few trout, but this unorthodox method sure worked for my fishing partner
on that windy day.
Another time Milt and I went fishing on a “trophy” trout pond in
northern Maine. While we were out on the pond the wind suddenly began to
blow very hard. We were using two anchors to hold our canoe in place.
Even with both anchors out, we still drifted slowly across the pond. We
were using wet flies and both of us had to cast our flies in the
direction the wind was blowing. The wind was blowing so hard neither of
us was able to cast with much accuracy. Milt made a cast, and the wind
blew his line over mine. I told him what happened, so Milt stripped in
his line as fast as he possibly could, trying to avoid hooking onto my
fly line. All of a sudden, a trout struck his fly! He hooked the trout,
and after playing it for a short time, landed it. I decided to try the
same method, by retrieving the fly as fast as I could strip in the line.
I had not retrieved the fly all the way in when I also caught a trout.
We continued fishing this way for the next several hours, and I have no
idea how many fish we caught and released. Our arms got very tired, so
one of us would take a break from fishing, while the other continued
fishing. This turned out to be a fun day of fly-fishing, in spite of the
strong wind. I do not believe we would have ever tried that method of
fishing if Milt’s fly had not crossed over mine. So it was strictly by
accident that we discovered how to catch those trout on that very windy
day. I also do not have the answer as to why those trout bit so well?
Since then we have tried this super fast way of retrieving the fly, on
this same pond, and it hasn’t worked. Why? I cannot explain it other
than to say: “Lady luck was with us that day.”
The options for fly fishermen are so numerous that sometimes it hard to
figure out just how you are going to fish. Wet or dry line? On top, or
near bottom? What pattern, sizes, and style of fly?
Decisions--Decisions--Decisions! I recall seeing some Atlantic salmon
fishermen, on the Penobscot River, in Bangor, Maine, take the
temperature of the water before they ever started fishing. If the water
temperature were not to their satisfaction, they would not fish. No
doubt they knew what the salmon liked, and would not waste their time,
if fishing conditions were not right for the salmon to move up river.
With so many methods of fly-fishing available, you can always try one
method, and if that doesn’t catch fish, try something different.
I think that once you become a fly fisherman, you will enjoy fly-fishing
in many different places. After a period of time, you will have favorite
locations that are very special to you. This may be from luck you have
had while fishing there or maybe the solitude of some remote pond, or
stream. It could even be the natural beauty of the water and land around
you, or perhaps the wildlife you see. Whatever the case may be, you will
want to return to these favorite places again and again, over the years.
I know because I have a few of these places, and they are very special.
Sometimes, no matter how good a fisherman you are, there will be days
when you will feel: “That you should have stayed in bed.” I have one or
two remote ponds that can cause this feeling for me. Sometimes I can
fish there all day, and hardly have a strike. Then again, I have been
known to be on the same body of water when trout were on a “feeding
frenzy” and I got strikes with nearly every cast. This is part of the
mystery of fishing that I enjoy. There is an old saying that goes: “10
percent of the fishermen catch 90 percent of the fish!” Sometimes I
wonder if this is true, but then again, I will be having good luck, and
feel I am catching my share of the fish.
We hear more and more about “catch and release” fishing, these days.
Fly-fishing is very compatible with these programs, because of the fact
that when fly-fishing, the fish are most always hooked in the mouth.
Consequently, their survival rate is much better than fish that swallow
the hook, as often happens when bait fishing.
I have not mentioned anything about the art of fly-casting, but perhaps
I should include some of my ideas on the subject. Here are a few tips
that may help you to become more proficient, while fly-fishing. If you
do not remember anything else, please remember these two important
steps: First is the position of the fly rod, while casting. Imagine, in
your mind, the face of a clock, with the hour hand at ten o’clock, or
two o’clock. This represent the angles the tip of the fly rod should be
in, when fly-casting. Stop the fly rod tip at ten o’clock for the back
cast then quickly thrust the fly rod forward to the two o’clock position
on the forward cast. This makes an angle of 60 degrees from the vertical
position, or 120 degrees, through the full arc of the cast.
The second tip is this: To keep the tip of the fly rod at these angles,
all that has to be done is to keep your elbow and wrist locked in a
straight position, while making your casts. The only thing moving should
be the rotation of your shoulder joint, as you raise the fly rod
straight up, until your arm is in the vertical position. Then quickly
thrust your arm forward, back down to the horizontal position, on the
forward cast.
Before you get actually involved with using the fly rod, I believe you
will get a better understanding of what I am tying to describe, if you
will simply clench your fist, then start with your “casting arm” (the
one used to hold the fly rod) in a horizontal position. Now look at your
clenched fist, and you can easily see the fly rod would be in the proper
two o’clock position. Now raise your arm to the vertical position,
remembering to keep your wrist and elbow straight and rigid, with your
fist closed. Now look up at your hand, while your arm remains in
position. You will see the fly rod would be in the ten o’clock position.
Keeping the fly rod within the proper angles is as simple as that!
Accomplishing and remembering these basic rules solves one of the fly
fisherman’s biggest problems. That is to: Keep the fly rod tip up!”
The reasons for doing this is to keep he fly line high enough above the
water (or ground) so it can make the proper loop, as the line is brought
backwards, and then forward. If the tip of the fly rod is held too low,
on the back cast, the fly line will hit the water (or ground), and
interfere with the accuracy and distance of the cast, as the fly line is
thrust forward. If the fly line remains too low, there is always the
danger of hooking yourself with the fly, especially on windy days.
Now that you have learned some of the principles, it is time to actually
try casting a fly line. Before starting, be sure there are no
obstructions, in front, back, or around you, for a distance of at least
fifty or sixty feet. Preferably this should be done outdoors, on a
grassy surface. An even better place would be along the shore of a lake
or stream. I believe most hard surfaces, such as gravel or paved areas,
would not be suitable, because they would be abrasive to your fly line,
and could damage it.
For reference, and to clarify my instructions, I will say the arm
holding the fly rod is the casting arm. The other arm is the line hand.
If you are right handed, you will cast with your right arm. “Lefties,”
like me, will use their left arm for that purpose.
Most fly reels are made so they can be used either left, or right
handed. This will depend on which hand you prefer to use to crank the
reel handle. I am left handed, so I hold the fly rod with my left hand
and crank with my right hand. Most right-handed people hold the fly rod
with their right hand, and crank with their left. There are, of course,
exceptions, and I have had some hot discussions over what is considered
reeling left or right handed. Really though, it makes little difference.
Do what comes naturally, because about the only time you will be reeling
in the fly line is when you want to change fly lines; or you are done
fishing. Just be sure to remember to have the reel handle on the correct
side, before you wind the fly line onto the spool.
First of all, as you prepare to start fishing, check your fly rod, make
sure the ferrules are seated properly, and the reel is installed
correctly. You should thread the fly line through all of the guides,
then pull enough line from the spool so the line, and leader, reach at
least back down to the rod handle. Hold the fly rod with your casting
arm in the horizontal position, out in front of you. (Remembering to
keep you wrist and elbow straight.) This will place your fly rod tip at
the two o’clock position. With your line hand, reach out and take hold
of the fly line firmly between your thumb and first two fingertips. (You
may have to pull a short amount of fly line from the reel in order to do
this comfortably.) Leave the end of the fly line hanging from the fly
rod, at least to the ground. Now you are ready to begin the back cast.
Back cast: With a very rapid movement, raise your casting arm to the
vertical position, with your arm remaining rigid. (Now your fly rod tip
will be at the ten o’clock position. Remember! the only arm movement
should be with the shoulder joint. Your line hand should remain nearly
horizontal as you start the cast, while simultaneously moving that arm
in a short, sweeping motion, away from your body, still holding the fly
line tightly between your thumb an first two fingertips, as you back
cast. (Doing this causes additional fly line to be pulled from the
spool, which is necessary in order to have enough fly line to increase
the distance of your cast, each time you bring the fly rod back and
forth.)
Forward cast: Timing is essential for making a good forward cast. As the
line is “whipped” backward, a loop will form, near the completion of the
back cast. This loop will diminish as the line extends itself in the
direction it is moving. At the instant the line is straightened, bring
the casting arm forward in a rapid and forceful thrust, to the
horizontal position. As soon as you see the fly line pass forward, over
your shoulder, you will see another loop form in the fly line. Just
before the line straightens, release your hold on the fly line with the
fingers of your line hand. Be careful to keep your fingers and thumb
closed enough so the fly line does not become completely free of your
grip. This completes the cycle of retrieving, and casting your fly line.
Try not to let the fly line strike the water (or ground). To prevent
this, begin the second cycle of the cast by quickly gripping tightly
onto the fly line again, with the line hand, while at the same time,
raising your casting arm, as before. You will notice each time you do
this the tip of the fly line will be further away from you. Continue
repeating this procedure, (false casting) until you have the line out as
far as you want it to go. (You will also notice each time the casts
lengthen, you will have to hesitate a fraction of a second longer in
order to give the fly line time to move its full length, before and
aft.) Once this occurs, simply hold your casting arm in the horizontal
position, and let the line fall to the spot where you are trying to
cast.
This may seem very complicated, but the actual casts will probably take
much less time than it takes to read these instructions. At first you
are bound to make mistakes, particularly with the coordination of
gripping and releasing the fly line at the right instant. It also takes
practice to learn to “get the feel” of your fly rod, and know when the
line has reached its maximum distance, as it moves in each respective
direction. Don’t get discouraged, just concentrate on keeping the elbow
and wrist of the casting arm straight! Soon you will be surprised how
natural fly-casting can be. Eventually you will be able to cast your fly
line for hours on end, without even thinking about it.
As your proficiency improves, tie a leader onto the fly line and get
used to it. By this time you may also want to practice casting to a
certain spot. Don’t try to overdue it. Try short casts at first, and as
you improve, you will find accuracy will be easier, and you will hardly
have to think about it. Accuracy is a must, especially when dry fly
fishing and the trout are rising. You want to cast your fly into the
“ring” made by the fish, when it rises. Often times, if you can drop the
fly on that spot, immediately after a rise, the fish will come back up
and hit the fly with fury! It is exciting, and lots of fun, whenever
this happens. Of all the kinds of fly fishing, I believe the action of
watching a dry fly being “gobbled up” by a hungry fish, as it breaks the
surface, is action at its best! I hope you agree, as you learn to use
your fly rod, that all of your time and efforts will be rewarding, and
give you many years of pleasure.
Up to now, you have tried everything you need to know, in order to catch
fish, except using the fly. When you feel you have accomplished the art
of fly casting, the time is right for you to actually get out on the
water, or stream, and practice with flies. The decision to use wet or
dry flies is basically common sense. If the fish are not rising, try a
wet line and tie on some sort of wet fly. If the weather is calm, or the
fish are rising, you can use a dry line and dry flies. Try to select a
fly that comes as near as possible to the type of insect the fish are
feeding on. Of course, dry flies come in many sizes and colors, so
again, look around you, to see if you can determine what size to use to
“match the hatch,” and hopefully somewhere near the right color. Select
a fly you feel will work then try it for eight or ten casts. If you do
not get any strikes, take the fly off and tie on another one, either of
a different size, or color. Often times getting the right fly can be a
matter of trial and error. Do not try to cast too far on the first few
tries, and do be careful about hooking yourself. Believe me, and I am
speaking from experience, a fly that gets hooked into your ear is
painful, and it can be even more so when it is removed!
As you start casting, you will “false cast” your fly line several times
before you get the line lengthened out to the point where you want the
fly to land upon the water. Once the fly is cast out to where you want
it to be, hold your fly rod in the two o’clock position, letting the fly
line, leader, and fly, land gently upon the water. You can relax the
casting arm, and with the line hand, continue to hold onto the fly line.
Notice if there is any loop in the fly line, as it lays on top of the
water. Also notice if the leader and fly are in the proper position, so
if you get a strike, you will be able to “set” the hook, with a quick
upward jerk of your fly rod. If the line isn’t nearly straight, slowly
pull in some of the line until the leader is straight, because you
cannot hook a fish if there is any slack in the leader. The dry fly can
be left to float quietly upon the water, or if you prefer, it can be
retrieved with short, slow, pulls on the fly line, with your line hand.
Pay strict attention to the dry fly, as it moves slowly towards you, and
be prepared for action! If you don’t get a strike, try, and try again.
After your dry fly has been used for awhile you may notice it will not
float very well. If this happens, shorten the line to bring the fly up
off the water, and “whip’ it back and forth with the fly rod in order to
dry the fly off. Then put some type of silicone waterproofing on the fly
to renew its floating qualities.
For fishing underwater, you will need to use the wet fly line, sinking
leader, and a wet fly, or maybe a some type of nymph. Again, you will
have to cast the line out until the fly is presented at the spot where
you want it to land. If you want to fish just under the surface, wait
for a few seconds for the line to sink, then retrieve the line in short,
quick jerks. This causes the fly to pulsate in the water, and the tail
of the fly to pulsate, which making it seem more lifelike and tempting
to the fish. Continue to retrieve the line until you see the leader come
to the surface of the water, before picking the fly up out of the water.
Many times I have fished with my wet line in water up to twenty feet
deep. Preferably, I had rather fish in water shallower than that. The
trick of wet fly fishing is to locate the depth where the fish are
staying. To do this, I often begin by letting the fly sink all the way
to bottom. You are wondering how to tell when the fly gets to bottom?
Sometimes it is hard to tell, especially if you are an inexperienced fly
fisherman. My suggestion would be to watch the fly line, as it first
starts to sink, to determine how fast it is descending. If it seems to
be sinking at a rate of a foot every three seconds, then you would
estimate the fly line would sink ten feet in thirty seconds or twenty
feet in sixty seconds. Another way to know you are near bottom is when
you get caught up on grass, rocks, pieces of wood, or other submerged
objects.
A few years ago my son Ronald, gave me a small electronic fish finder.
This eliminates a lot of doubts and guesswork, regarding the location,
and depth, of fish. The fish finder can be very frustrating at times,
because even though it shows where the fish are, it fails to tell the
fish to bite! Even though my fish finder is very light and portable, I
often leave it home, and look for fish by using the “old fashioned”
methods. Especially if I am going back into some remote, back country
pond.
If you do not get any strikes after a few casts down near bottom, wait
for a shorter period of time for the fly line to sink, and in this
manner, the line will be a few feet above bottom. I make a few more
casts, and if nothing happens, keep trying nearer the surface. If all
goes well, the fish will be located by getting a strike. Once they are
located you can let the line sink to a point that is below the depth of
where the fish are lying, and begin your retrieves. Be ready to set the
hook at any moment, because often times a fish will follow the fly all
the way up to just under the surface, and hit the fly just as it is
about to break the surface.
Don’t be afraid to change the speed and length of each pull with your
line hand, as the fly line is retrieved. Sometimes fish will hit best
when the fly is moving slowly. Then again, speeding up the retrieve can
be the answer to getting a strike. Often, when fishing with a wet fly
line, you will not see the fish strike the fly. First thing you know,
there will be a jolt on the line, and when this happens, set the hook
instantly. Fly-fishing is a lot different than bait fishing. Once a fish
hits the fly, and discovers it isn’t food, they quickly release their
hold on the fly. Sometimes, when the fish are not really hitting hard, a
person had to be extra quick to hook them. By contrast, I have felt
trout strike a submerged fly so hard they practically hooked themselves.
If it is only an average size fish, you will feel a “jolt” on the fly
rod. When a really big fish strikes, you will be able to tell, because
the strike will be more like a “kerrrrchunk!” In either case, don’t
hurry about getting the fish in, because the fun of fly-fishing is the
wonderful action of your fly rod. Take your time, play the fish, and
enjoy all the benefits of this type of fishing.
Probably the hardest type of fly fishing, as far as I am concerned, is
nymph fishing. There was an old gentleman, who spent the summers at
Nesowadnehunk Lake, in northern Maine, whom I only knew by the name of
“Red.” He always told me if I wanted to catch bigger fish, more
consistently, I should fish with nymphs. I have watched other fishermen
fish this way, but somehow, I never got around to trying this method
very much, until a few years ago. I finally learned it takes a lot of
patience, and perseverance, to become a good nymph fisherman. I am far
from an expert, but at least I have learned how to catch fish this way.
My biggest problem, while nymph fishing, is to retrieve the fly
s---l---o---w---l---y. Only now, after several years of occasionally
using this method, have I learned well enough to catch fish with some
regularity. This is not my favorite method, but I have to agree, it can
be an effective way to catch some fair sized fish.
I have never considered myself a fly-fishing “purist”. By this, I mean
that when I go fishing, I do not spend a whole lot of time trying to
determine what fish are feeding on., during that particular time of day.
I have read books on the subject, and they go into great detail of how
to use fine mesh nets, and roll over rocks, looking for insects, etc.,
in order to determine what particular hatch is on. One book even advised
taking a small fly tying kit, and if necessary, tie flies at streamside.
I am more apt to take a more casual approach, by looking around for
hatching insects that might give some insight on which type of flies to
use. If this doesn’t work, I will tie on a fly and make eight or ten
casts. If I get no strikes, I change to another fly. Eventually, I am
usually able to find some type of fly that will catch fish.
I have fished many of the same waters for several years, and past
experience has also been a good teacher. I often have a pretty good idea
of which flies work best, on certain waters. Of course, this does not
always work, but in that case, I have plenty of other flies to try.
Often times, the time of year determines the types and colors of flies I
will use. In early spring, streamer flies are very effective for
trolling on the surface, just after ice out. Later on, around May, June,
and the first part of July, when hatches are on, and fish are rising, it
is fun to use dry flies. Fall fishing generally means going back to
fishing with wet flies. Most fishermen have their own preferences, and
as you gain experience, I am sure you will have favorite patterns of
flies in your fly boxes.
Fly-fishing isn’t just catching fish. It is meeting nice people, or
fishing with family or friends. There is always beautiful scenery,
especially when out on a remote pond or lake, where you will see
beautiful sunrises and sunsets. Often there are many varieties of
wildlife to watch. These things can make you seem closer to nature. And
last, but not least; wonderful memories. I once read an article that
stated: “Fish only live in beautiful places.”
As you can probably tell, I have been “hooked on fishing” for well over
sixty years, and I have more than enough memories to last for the rest
of my lifetime. My hope is that someday, somewhere, some of us will meet
alongside a stream, or on a remote pond or lake, where we can share our
stories. It is my fondest wish that I have convinced some of you to
enjoy the sport of fly fishing. Try it, and I’ll bet you will enjoy this
type of fishing. Here’s wishing: “Tight lines” to all of you.
A. Sayward Lamb
Copyright 2004, 2005
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